Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen, this morning I have a new tutorial for you guys inspired by AFI’s music video for their single Snow Cats off of the new album, Blood.
There are two versions of the look, one with and one without the washed out teal glow. Both feature a bold red wing and a red lip. For this look, I wanted to keep things very simple color wise much like the video. The colors are for the most part are complementary shades which create very striking imagery. The colors are stark, yet washed out giving them a retro feel. I tried to imitate that tones in the makeup.
Theses opposing shades are paired with minimal geometrics shapes over trippy but muted galaxy background. I drew inspiration from the shapes and tried to create a very graphic and angular wing.
If you want to see how I got this look, just keep reading below.
I started out with my eyes primed with Too Faced Shadow Insurance, and my brows done as they will help guide how far out and at what angle I want my wing to go in.
The first palette I reached for was the Kat Von D Shade+ Light Eye Contour Palette.
With the shade called Laetus on a large fluffy brush, I set my whole eyelid area all the way to the browbone. I chose the shade Laetus because it’s a yellow/cream shade which tied into the off-white shades used in the video and gives a subtle warmth. Applying a base shade will also help with blending and give the lid a smooth even texture. If a creamy shade like this doesn’t work on your skin tone, no worries, just use a shade that does. Any shade close your skin tone will do the trick.
Next, I took a combination of Ludwin (Soft Peach) mixed with Lazarus (Cool Taupe) as a transition shade. This look is all about taking opposing shades and creating a harmony with them. Concentrating Lazarus (Cool Taupe) more in the crease area and blending it into Ludwin (Warm Peach) creating depth and contour to the eye socket.
Next, with a red eyeliner, I mapped out how I wanted to do my wing. For this, I used the NYX Faux Blacks Pencil in Oxblood. After that, I decided to use a bright red liquid lipstick as a liquid liner.
*Disclaimer: This can cause eye irritation as red pigment can do and this product isn’t intended for the eye. This is just what I used because it’s what I had on hand and was the shade I wanted. I paid the price the next day with red weepy eyes.
Here are some eye safe alternatives:
- MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Liner Liquid Eyeliner in 10 Iridescent Red – brick red sheen
Anyway, with a fine liner brush, I started filling in the wing. After a lot of back and forth, I finally had a shape I liked. I used a face primer and a q-tip to clean the shape up and constantly checked back and forth between eyes making sure the were even. This took a good bit of time to perfect but I wanted the wing super sharp and almost geometric.
Next, I took a red eyeshadow in a deeper red shade and set the wing. This added a bit of depth and mattified the wing.
I used the shade Bloodmilk from the Kat Von D Serpentina Palette. Here are a few other red eyeshadows you could use:
- Urban Decay Eyeshadow in Relish
- Anastasia Beverly Hills Modern Renaissance Eye Shadow Palette – Red Ochre
- FELINE FANCY MAKEUP COLLECTION – Sugarpill
- LOVE+ PRESSED EYESHADOW – Sugarpill
- MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Shadow Eyeshadow and Powder Blush – M846 Morello Cherry (Matte)
For some finishing touches on the eye, I reached for my Kat Von D Metal Matte Palette. It was unintentional that all the shadow I used were from KVD.
On a smaller blending brush, I added a touch of Stone (cool toned gray) to the outer part of the crease and softly blended it inward to add more depth to the crease. Then on the brow bone, I added Linen (pure white) and added it to the inner corner of the eye and carefully to the lid.
Then added a dab of Glitz, (metallic pearl) to the inner corner and highest point of my brow bone. I lined my waterline with an off white pencil. I used Nyx Faux Whites in Linen, you’ll want to put something in the waterline to keep it from appearing red which will just read as sickly or irritated. I also contoured my lower lashline with Lazarus (Cool Taupe) for definition. I finished the eye off with a few coats of black mascara.
I kept the eye free of any black liner and the lashes tame. As a lash minute decision I brought the red under the eye, partially bring it along and bringing it to an abrupt stop a little less than half way and that completes phase one of this eye look.
Here’s the full face complete with phase one of the eye look and details on what products I used.
For a primer I used Maybelline Master Prime Blur + Redness, then color corrected with a very pale yellow/green corrector applied in a thin layer all over my cheeks, chin and nose. When you’re working with red shades, they can draw attention to any redness in your skin.
I used L’Oreal Infallible Pro Glow mixed with NYX Pro Foundation Mixer in White to so my skin would look as perfected and porcelain as possible without looking like a mask. My face is darker and much redder than my neck and chest so this a normal step for me actually. I concealed with Maybelline Age Rewind and set my face with ELF HD Powder. Then I contoured using Kat Von D Beauty Shade+Light Eye Contour Palette using the shade Subconscious which is a cool toned taupe shade.
For my blush, I wanted to go warmer and peachy so I used a combination of Baby Love Love Flush Blush on the back part of my cheeks and almost as a contour, then took “I Will Always Love You” on the apples of the cheek. As a finishing powder and go add a glow to the skin I used ELF Illuminating Palette and then highlighted with ELF Baked Highlighter in Moonlight on the high points of my face.On the lips, I used that same liquid lipstick and went over it with MAC Lipliner in Auburn. Now for the second phase of the eye look. Nothing on the rest of the face was changed, just amped up the eye even more. All I did was add more of that cool gray shade (Stone) from the Kat Von D Metal Matte Palette into the crease and along the lower lash line adding even more of a contoured look to the eye.Then with the shade Ignite from the Kat Von D Metal Matte Palette and a small pencil brush I added a glow of a shimmery faded teal to the inner corner and lightly blended across the lower lashline. The Final Look.
I hope everyone had a great Valentine’s Day. I’m celebrating today cause eff trying to go eat anywhere on V-day.
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Bee Beautiful. Bee You.